Hey 起!
A monthly-ish newsletter from
Communal Table Wellness |
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Hey hey!
Thanks for being here for the inaugural issue of this newsletter! |
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At an early age, I fell in love hard with ketchup. I can’t pinpoint the exact age or meal when it happened. But I have vivid memories of strategically using my French fries as a means for transporting a giant dollop of the sweet, tangy stuff into my mouth. My parents would tease, saying I was really eating ketchup with a side of fries. It was my favorite condiment bar none — a must on eggs, all variations of potatoes, and whatever I deemed was a worthy vehicle for the vibrant sauce. I thought I had found heaven when I first tasted omurice, a Japanese omelette rice flavored with ketchup and usually topped with an additional drizzle of ketchup or demi glace that has a tomato base. Chef’s kiss 💋 |
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In Chinese cooking, there’s a homestyle dish called tomato and egg (番茄炒蛋 “faan ke chow daan” or sometimes abbreviated to 茄蛋 “ke daan”). The dish is a humble one and only has tomatoes and eggs as its main ingredients. Aromatics and seasonings such as ginger and white pepper add complexity and zing. But in the version my mom and many other cooks make, a bit of ketchup is added to lend brightness and liven up the cooked tomatoes. Tomato and egg was one of few dishes that would get me to eat every rice grain in my bowl — which is saying a lot considering I didn’t like rice much as a kid. This dish hasn’t been a regular in my meal rotation until 2020. It was around the same time when I started seeing tomato and egg recipes pop up EVERYWHERE. Maybe it’s one of those “I see my car everywhere after I buy it” phenomenon… or perhaps a lot of people were seeking out simple comfort foods during uncertain times. There are slight variations between the recipes I’m highlighting below. After cooking through many of them - and my mom’s, I determined white pepper, corn starch slurry, and ketchup are my non-negotiables. The pepper gives a kind of mild herbaceous spiciness. The slurry added to beaten eggs helps create a silky texture and makes it less prone to getting tough. The ketchup needs no further explanation at this point. For me, the magic of tomato and egg is how ubiquitous but also unique it is for many Chinese families. Each household has their own set of seasonings and steps. Some like it over rice, others like it over noodles. But however it’s cooked and served with, it’s a dish that represents home. Tomato and egg has become my personal cultural portal whenever I want to feel more connected to my heritage in under 30 minutes. |
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Made with Lau Of the recipes in the list, this one is most similar to how my mom and I make ours. The only addition I have is the corn starch slurry for soft scramble-y eggs; it’s like insurance policy against overcooked eggs. Kenji López-Alt Feels like a “grown up” version of the classic with a dash of fish sauce and butter in the eggs as well as garlic chives to flavor the oil. 張媽媽廚房Mama Cheung One of the few recipes I saw that includes onions but definitely works in this dish. Pailin’s Kitchen Also has fish sauce added to the eggs. The addition of soy sauce in the tomatoes is unusual but a clever way to boost umami. Variation with noodles
For a meta cooking experience, listen to these 2 podcast episodes about tomato and eggs while making this dish :)
The House Specials Season 1 Episode 3 (Yearning, with Szeki Chan) and Episode 4 (Belonging, with Jeremy Leung and Ryan Wilson) |
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Do you have a favorite tomato and egg recipe?
Share by hitting reply to this email or tag me on Instagram @communaltablewellness |
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Unrelated… A lil random footnote of what's bringing me joy and silliness these days! |
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✍🥚Drawing faces on eggs whenever I bring home a fresh carton! Inspired by Things to Look Forward To by Sophie Blackall, this wholly unnecessary but highly fun practice sprinkles just the right amount of amusement on any unsuspecting fridge-openers. |
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Thanks for reading and wishing you an egg-cellent month ahead! Elizabeth |
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