The last part of the equation is an easy one, and that’s the grass type.
Now we have some information, we can make some decisions about what we are going to do.
If it is a warm season grass such as couch, kikuyu and zoysia, we can treat it a bit harder and really get it back to almost nothing as it has rhizomes (underground runners) that will help it grow back. This is also what helps it be more resilient.
If it is a cool season grass, Rye, Fescue, and Buffalo in this instance, the key is to not go “hard” otherwise we run the risk of the grass not been able to grow back as it doesn’t have the rhizomes and only a very short (in comparison) root zone.
No matter the grass type, the order of operations remains the same, just height adjustments that need to be made.
Scalp
This may take a few passes to get down to a “working height” just take it slow. For warm season this can be almost to the dirt, for cool season we want to keep it at about 10mm. either way is needs to be below the height we want to maintain our lawn at.
Detatch/ scarify/ groom
although these terms do mean slightly different things, at this time of year, much the same. The key here is for warm season grasses set the height of the scarifying reel to the height of the dirt, for cool season, again about 10mm above.
Aeration
Ideally this time of year we are core aerating; this is to allow some oxygen and light into the profile. The other benefit is it can have is, that over time we end up (mathematically) with a new soil profile. This can help keep our grass growing and prevents the soil from going stale. You can either pick up the cores, or run your mower back over them and mulch them back in.