Things always break at the most inauspicious moment.
Like our freezer, which gave out the day before we were scheduled to receive a very exciting delivery, destined for said freezer. So on Tuesday i spent a good hour moving things around, Tetris-ing boxes and packages, to make room for the 25 ducks and 25 fat livers (aka foie gras) that i ordered from Rusé Comme Un Canard.
Rusé Comme Un Canard is a farm in Granby, in the Eastern Townships, belonging to Fernande Ouellet et Francis Laroche. The two have been raising ducks and geese there since 2011. Fernande is something of a ag-star (that means agricultural-world star in case you're wondering), and it's not an exaggeration to say that I am awed and a little intimidated by her accomplishments. She is a vocal advocate for small-scale farming, its place in the agricultural world, the importance of recognizing it as a valid part of the food system and supporting infrastructure and funds for it.
Alongside work on her farm, Fernande lead the conception and construction of a small abattoir in her region, called Le Petit Abattoir, that was developed to respond to the needs of small poultry farmers in that area. As mainstream farms get larger, so the abattoirs that slaughter their animals grow, leaving few options for small farms whose needs can't be met by these larger operations. Unfortunately, this small abattoir opened and then promptly closed due to difficulties finding staff and other predictable financial woes. But the work of dreaming of it, gathering support and funding, and building it, that was all Fernande. She has also participated in ongoing research into the feasibility of non-gavage foie-gras production. She has also long advocated for government regulation and oversight that recognizes the specificity and needs of small scale farming, and is a frequent guest on panels and shows on these themes.
All this to say that these ducks are raised by people who care deeply about animal welfare and the health of the land they farm, and about the continued existence of this type of farming, even as the bulk of the meat in the world comes from larger and larger operations.
For the detail lovers among us, here are the specs: this year Fernande and Francis raised 300 Moulard ducks. Moulard ducks are hybrid of the Pekin and Muscovy ducks. Both of these breeds have some traits advantageous for farming, but when cross-bred they make a duck that boasts the best of both.
Pekin ducks are gregarious and friendly, they like to hang out in groups, and are originally migratory birds, which means that their digestive system is set up to eat heavily before the migratory season, making them ideal for foie gras production. Muscovy ducks are super hardy and can live in sub-zero temperatures, but are not migratory in their nature, and are pretty unfriendly and prone to fighting. Cross the two and you get a bird that loves to hang out in the cold and eat.
Its bigger and more robust than either of its parents. It doesn't have the urge to migrate, but retains the physiology that allows it to gorge on food and tolerate gavage.
What exactly does it mean to tolerate gavage? The process of gavage takes place in the last two weeks of the duck's life (week 15 and 16 at Rusé Comme Un Canard). Up until this point they live entirely on pasture. During these last two weeks the ducks are moved from the pasture to indoor group enclosures, where they are fed twice daily. Is force feeding ducks cruel? I think that the answer is entirely different depending on whether we're talking about a small farm or a large industrial farm. The pressures of expedience and volume at large farms makes this process, and any process involving handling animals, including their lives up until the gavage period, devoid of tenderness, mechanical and often cruel. Gavage at Rusé Comme Un Canard is done slowly. Every animal is assessed for its readiness to accept a meal, handled gently, and fed whole grains using a hand held tool. There is no pressure to work fast or to meet quotas. the ducks and their well being is prioritized and their habits and behaviours are respected throughout their life span.
This delivery marks the first time we carry foie gras at the shop since we opened 11 years ago. Also the first time it will make its appearance on one of our restaurants' menus. We've waited this long to find the right product. if this raises questions for you and you want to know more, or share, or argue, I'm here.
