In the ink-washed dusk, the adhan rang out: a sonorous monotone, joined within seconds by a dozen more voices, rising in a chorus that commanded the sky. When the muezzin sounds the call to prayer, it adds texture to the story unravelling all around me. The moment weaves an enchantment that I don’t dare break. It's an ancient sound that reverberates across the Red City. I absorb the moment, allowing its sounds and sights to make its lasting imprint on me. 

 

I return to writing. My pen hovers over the crisp blank pages. I am about to record my first moment in Marrakech. 

Had I not been in Portugal but hours ago? That morning, I left Lisbon blurry-eyed as the sun rose over the city. A remnant of last night clung to me like the faint scent of a lover whose memory only remains.  I recall sipping sangria, sheep cheese, the hum of conversation outside a taverna. The air hummed with music and poetry, a spell woven by the sounds of Fado. I remember being utterly captivated by the woman’s voice, haunting and resonant, echoing through the narrow, winding alleyways of the Alfama and a waning moon bathed the city in its soft, ethereal light. I thought about the contrast that I hadn't known was coming: heat, color, smells, language, an iteration of the world I'd never seen.

 

Morocco… There is something about its cultures, both Arab and Berber, that is deeply compelling: at once inscrutable and full of heart. I describe my first encounter with Marrakech like a sudden slap to the face followed by a warm embrace. 

 

Little did I know, Marrakech was already beginning to lure me, a subtle seduction that would deepen with each passing day. 

 

Mornings begin with steaming cups of mint tea and birdsong. I wake in darkness but for the small streams of light slipping through the cracks of a single window. Riads have no windows looking outside, only towards the inner courtyard.  In terms of architecture, the facade and walls of the Riad are distinguished by their privacy features. Unlike regular buildings that have openings facing the exterior, Riads’ windows are always facing the interior courtyard and garden instead, not only for providing privacy for the family, as it is supported by the islamic conception of intimacy.

 

After a time lingering in bed, I climb the narrow tiled steps towards the roof. Breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace among draped vines and billowing curtains, and is an affair to remember. First comes the fruit salad, so intricately cut and perfectly arranged, you could photograph it and turn it into an NFT. As if this isn't enough, there are shakshuka-style Berber eggs and loubia (Moroccan white beans) with sun-dried tomatoes and merguez sausage, freshly mixed smoothies of greens and citrus, baskets of warm beghrir (traditional pancakes) and m’semen (flatbreads) with little glass pots of amlou, the almond, honey and Aragon oil condiment that’s a Moroccan staple. How will I ever return to breakfast as usual again I wonder.  

 

As I savor the final moments of breakfast, Abdallah - my local guide for the day - joins me. His arrival is marked by a gentle panting, a fact he immediately attributed to the stairs, and a quick explanation that Marrakech, though sprawling, was blessedly flat. He is a small, dapper figure, an image seemingly lifted from a bygone era. His attire—cream linen, a stylish hat, aviator shades—conjured a romantic vision of 1920s North Africa. I couldn't help but feel a pang of self-consciousness; compared to his effortless style, my own attire felt decidedly inadequate for venturing into the labyrinth of the Medina’s souks.

 

We set off by foot, and almost immediately, I felt a subtle shift. It is a remarkable transformation. It is as if an invisible shield had materialized around me. Until that moment, my solitary presence felt strangely exposed, drawing unwanted attention. I had been the focal point. But now, that had changed. I am no longer the spectacle; I am simply an observer, a witness, finally free to absorb and capture the world around me.

 

The exotic atmosphere of Jemaa el-Fnaa Square is a carcophy of sounds, smells and visuals. A table piled high with human teeth is brought to my attention, a man gives me a toothless grin. Not exactly how I imagined the tooth fairy. The noise reaches a crescendo with the snake charmers competing for your attention. Snakes are coiled on faded carpets. I avert my eyes. I wonder if the snakes dream in sounds. Rug sellers unfurled their azilals and kilims like exotic heraldry, juice vendors beckoned. A man with a monkey on his shoulder taunts us. Throughout my week in Marrakech, I'd discover another side to this square. As the sun sets and darkness descends Jema, as it's known, is transformed into a mix of Berber and Arab fantasy. Chefs fire up their grills. The square fills with intoxicating smoke. Gas lanterns cast patchy light across rows of stalls. I soak up the square’s theatrics. Both the entertainers themselves and the shrill of excitement from tourists add to the carnival atmosphere of fortune tellers and snake charmers. I liisten to storytellers recant the heritage of ancient Berber tribes and entertain the evening crowds with mystical readings and theatrics. I can still imagine the moment in my mind's eye.

 

Weaving through the Kasbah and the Mellah – the old Jewish market –  I sample and savor as my guide proudly produces one offering after another: kefteh sliced off skewers in strips, olives brined with cilantro or rosemary or cumin, picked from huge wood spoons dipped into vats. There are honey-soaked briouates and amlou, the Berber butter made from crushed almonds, honey and argan oil. I walk and walk. I lean in earnestly to taste this and that, to decipher the French and accented English over Arabic pop blaring from various speakers. I trod quickly but carefully; navigating people and donkey drawn carts and darting scooters, fielding waves of color and sound.  For almost three hours I traverse the old souks, encircled by their thousand-year-old walls. By mid afternoon, we wander the 16th-century Ben Youssef Madrasa. I run my hands over zellige-tiled walls and Koranic verses rendered in carved plaster. I continue my venture back into the souks around Mouassine, whose wider alleys are more tranquil. I take photos: red doors against pink walls, ornate incisions in silver lanterns, the patterns and shapes that caught and held my attention. Baskets of spices. Bundles of yarn. Piles of shoes. Capturing a visual tapestry of a city.

 

By late afternoon, I am ready to leave the chaos in the streets behind me. Navigating the labyrinth of corridors, I disappear into the womb of my riad. I exhale. This is a stark contrast to the outside. I retreat to my room where I lay down and absorb the memories of the day. Delicate patterns of light spread across the bed, filtered through the latticed menzeh window. The late afternoon muezzin was fainter here; I pause to listen. The quiet was a balm to my overstimulated mind.

 

Dusk falls and once again I climb the narrow tiled stairs to the rooftop terrace. I need to write, to record and process the scenes of the day. At some point, I stop to listen to one last prayer call – pennants of sound released into the air, spiraling up, fading into the deep blue. 

 

I traveled to Morocco to participate in a gathering of global tour operators. This was a fantastic opportunity to connect with others in the industry and exchange knowledge. I was invited to present on several topics, including tour design, best practices for hiring and retaining tour leaders, and—a particular passion of mine—how to craft intimate group travel experiences that goes beyond sightseeing. 

 

I have to say Marrakech utterly captivated me. I can't shake how it made me feel. Fully alive. Already I am planning my return in 2025.

 

 

Here you'll find my round-up of recent European travel-related news, tips, and resources so you can be in the know:

 

 

AAA forecasts a record-breaking 119 million Americans will travel between Christmas and New Year's. This year's travel surge surpasses the previous record set in 2019 by 3 million and one of the busiest on record therefore it's important to know what your rights are as a traveler.

 

 

Under federal law, you’re entitled to a full cash refund. Period. And now, under the new DOT rule, those refunds must be issued by airlines automatically. Even basic economy tickets—which are nonrefundable if you elect to cancel voluntarily—are eligible for a cash refund if the airline cancels your flight.

Cancellations

These changes entitle you to free rebooking or a refund (even for nonrefundable fares).

Most airlines have policies that if they significantly change your itinerary after booking, they'll get you rebooked. What constitutes a “significant change” is now more clear than it used to be (thanks to the DOT rule): a delay of three hours or more for domestic flights and six hours or more for international flights. Other cases that can count as a significant change to your itinerary:

Check the DOT customer service dashboard for airline-specific offerings (travel credits, meals, hotels, etc.).

 

In the moment, an overbooked flight can feel frustrating. But for flexible travelers, it can actually be a gift.

For international flights, the delay length needs to be a bit longer to get the big money:

Here’s the full list of rules and travelers’ rights under federal law in an oversell situation.

 

 

 

 

A world of where you are immersed in the astounding beauty of the Scottish Highlands, filled with quiet moments, and rich with meaningful connections. 

 

This journey is designed exclusively for women like you, who’ve tirelessly poured themselves out for others. 

 

What is included:

The experience is personal and authentic, with time to immerse yourself in local culture, freedom to roam and time set aside for your own exploration. 

 

 

 

welcome TO IZZA: SEVEN ANCIENT HOMES, ONE HOUSE OF FRIENDS. Hidden within the Medina of Marrakech, IZZA is a place where kindred creative spirits mix, cultures connect and new friendships are forged. With its tranquil courtyards and tadelakt interiors, twinkling rooftop and traditional hammam, this Moroccan hideaway is nothing short of enchanting.

 

Only 20 minutes from the airport, the Riad is set in a quiet residential neighborhood in the north of the medina. This is a great place to experience local life at the Rue el-Gza food market, the huge vintage market of Bab el Khemis and the zaouia (shrine) of Sidi Bel Abbes.  As a solo female travelers, I appreciate the private car service which is offered 24/7 to get around.

IZZA has its own design surprises. Fourteen rooms encircle three tranquil courtyards. Every room is idiosyncratically fitted out with hand-selected pieces of vintage furniture, the constant being the decades of the 1940s through 1960s. Books and impressive art work are everywhere. Bathrooms are similarly luxurious with glossy tadelakt (Moroccan plaster) and zellij-tiled walls that refract the light and underfloor heating to ward off winter chills. The guest rooms take their names from icons of Morocco’s counter-culture past. 

 

My room, nicknamed “The Photographer's Studio” was named for Sir Cecil Beaton who was a British fashion, portrait and war photographer, diarist, painter, interior designer, as well as an Oscar–winning stage and costume designer for cinema and theatre. 

 

The riad has an impressive array of facilities, including a heated pool, a Tsmart gym and a bijou hammam, but best of all are the fabulous experiences that event ambassador Aicha Benazzouz dreams up. These include photography workshops with Moroccan artists, gallery tours in Gueliz, vintage motorbike excursions to art deco mansions or pottery lessons at out-of-town retreats. You name it and she can probably arrange it. This makes IZZA a great springboard for exploring the intimate side of Marrakech – something many visitors miss out on.

 

IZZA’s rooftop terrace is a lovely flower-framed stage for the bar and restaurant with tables beneath pergolas draped in vines. The pastry chef is a genius and the freshly made croissant, bread, msemem flatbread and beghrir pancakes are the best in the medina. There are also hot dishes including eggs with saffron and bowls of loubia (beans) with sun-dried tomatoes or merguez. 

 

Double rooms from $210 in low season; and from $275 in high. Airport transfers and breakfast included. In addition, guests booked into regular rooms receive a complimentary evening cocktail, while those in suites also enjoy a 45-minute massage.

 

What makes this stay unforgettable beyond the stunning property is the service. The staff - everyone from the front desk to the spa manager, to the privater driver and bartenders are exceptionally kind, willing and helpful. 

 

This was hands down my favorite stay of 2024. Already I am dreaming of returning. If only to spend another week in this enchanting oasis.

I am often asked where am I traveling to next. So I thought I'll share my upcoming schedule - you can follow my journeys via Instagram stories @suddenjourneys or click on the link at the bottom of this newsletter. 

 

 

Here are a few of my recent reads that I highly recommend:

 

What is the essence of seeing others deeply, and how do we improve such skills in emotional intelligence? It is a blessing to be deeply seen by others, and it happens at a few precious moments in life. In this book, author David Brooks provides an engaging dialogue with readers on developing these enlightening experiences of knowing a person — the art of accompaniment, listening, and sharing. We are also guided through how to develop a clearer narrative of ourselves, our story. As Aldous Huxley says: “Experience is not what happens to you, it’s what you do with what happens to you.” Brooks notes that at some point in life, you may have met somebody wholly interested in you, who gets you, “who helps you name and see things in yourself that maybe you had not yet put into words, and you become a better version of yourself.” In my own life, there were magical encounters where I was blessed with genuine and candid thoughts from others that have left lasting impressions. The act of seeing another person, Brooks argues, is a profoundly creative act: How can we look somebody in the eye and see something large in them, and in turn, see something larger in ourselves? ​How to Know a Person is for anyone searching for connection, seeking to understand and yearning to be understood. As Brooks writes, “The ultimate gift we can give another person is to know them deeply.”

 

Lifescapes is a dazzlingly original blend of memoir, essay, biography and poetry, reflecting on the art and impossibility of capturing life on the page.  The Economist’s obituarist Ann Wroe sheds light on her belief in the sublime – and her intense, sometimes baffling inner life – in this beautiful and brave book. This book matters not so much in the tracking down of the soul but in the honoring of life itself. Wroe writes decisively about death and how often it seems too brief an event to win in any competition against life. She gives a wonderful description of her brother scything in a churchyard – an ungrim reaper – and recalls how, after the death of her husband, she suddenly saw that life has “far more power and moment” than she had realized before. Lifescapes encourages us to take a deep breath, contemplate life more keenly and acknowledge the miraculous if – and when – we find it.