I began in Turkmenistan’s capital, Ashgabat,a city that gleams with white marble and surreal opulence. It is called the White City, and when you see it firsthand, you will understand why — it feels like a futuristic mirage rising from the desert. Some even call this city “Ash-Vegas”, a nod to its white marble skyline and nighttime illuminations.
In total contrast, nearby lies Darvaza–a fire-lit crater that has been burning for decades in the middle of the Karakum Desert. It is elemental and otherworldly — no photograph could ever do it justice. I stayed overnight in a yurt next to the crater where I had hands-down the best meal of my trip.
Uzbekistan & The Silk Road
Welcome to Uzbekistan, a double landlocked country about the size of California. Here, I traveled along the Silk Road — a literal crossroads of civilizations — and stepped into cities that felt like open-air museums. Gliding along the Silk Road into Samarkand on an ultra-luxurious train was fit for royalty. One minute you're sipping champagne, the next you’re stepping into a city of turquoise domes and ancient stories that still pulse through the streets.
Markets here are a sensory feast of spices, breads, and sheer variety of food. They are, of course, rich with the most incredible silks and textiles (‘Caitlin-approved’ gifts I brought back) and artisan-crafted goods. I took a cooking class using enormous skillets, tossing in onions, spices, rice and lamb to make plov, the national dish. One Uzbek gave me a tee shirt with an image of the Beatles on it that said “All you need is plov.” They were right; but, in a true place of contrasts, I was also eating Beluga caviar fresh out of the Caspian sea almost daily for about $10!
Uzbekistan’s greatest wealth? Its people. I was approached to take a photograph more times in Uzbekistan than anywhere else on earth. People wanted to connect, laugh, and learn. Nearly everyone there works two jobs, they are entrepreneurial, resilient, and forward-thinking. And global brands are noticing, with companies like Netflix and The North Face setting up warehousing and remote operations here, it’s quickly becoming a hub for innovation.
Tajikistan
Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, is a meeting of rugged mountains and refined culture. It is a smaller, quieter stop — but a critical one that rounds out this region’s complexity. What struck me most here was the craftsmanship. I visited multi-generational blacksmiths and woodwork shops, I met three brothers who were sword makers, and I visited steel artisans who still do things the old way, with pride and precision. There was also an interesting amount of WWII military memorabilia - think lots of Top Gun leather jackets.
