Just got back home to Boston and reflecting on our stay in Kinsale a small town on the Southern coast of Ireland. We wanted to step out of routine and spend some time somewhere slower. What we found was a pace and presence that’s been hard to shake, in the best way….
Something shifts in Kinsale. It doesn’t ask much of you just that you pay attention. The pace slows, and before long, so do you.The town feels lived in. Stone walls with moss in the cracks, weathered shopfronts, vibrant buildings, sailboats scattered across the harbor. Nothing polished, and that’s the point. It feels real. There is a kind of honesty to it that is hard to fake.
Nature is not just the backdrop here. It is part of the rhythm.The tides, the wind, the shifting skies…The landscape keeps you present and grounded. I found myself sitting for long stretches with my journal and easing into just being…
The food is the same, uncomplicated, thoughtful, and rooted in the local land and sea. You can tell where it comes from. The oysters taste like the ocean, the butter is rich, the vegetables are vibrant. For a small town, the food scene strikes a rare balance, relaxed but incredibly well done. There’s real care in how things are made and shared.Theres no rush or “ticking boxes” just enjoy exploring, meeting new people, sitting by the water and embracing the casual coastal rhythm.
Kinsale, if you go
Start with the Scilly Walk. It is a coastal path from town out toward Summercove. An easy walk along water, and through beautiful trees, a space to clear your head. You will pass old stone walls, maybe a few other walkers, but mostly it is just you and the sea and the sound of birds….
At the end, stop in at The Bulman, an iconic landmark in Kinsale. It is the kind of pub that feels exactly where it belongs, right on the water, low ceilings but filled with light, and a solid pint of Murphy’s. If the tide is in, take a swim right in front. It is cold, but addicting…
Man Friday is just up the hill. Go for dinner around sunset if you can. The food is consistently good, and the harbor view is breathtaking, allowing you to take in the entire town…
Back in town,
Francis Street Provisions is one of my favorites. Small menu, everything local and beautifully made, the owner is lovely too!
The Black Pig is another amazing spot, great wine, small plates, and a garden out back that is easy to settle into and stay a while.
You will probably end up talking to a few locals. It just happens here. The people are so lovely and genuinely kind. Some of my favorite nights were at
Prims, a wine bar that also doubles as a bookstore. We spent a lot of time there with our lovely AirBnB host! It is relaxed and a little unexpected, with shelves to browse, a great wine list, and a room that makes you want to stay longer than you planned (which you will…)
We stayed at
The Other 43, a beautiful home just a short walk from town. Anna, our host, was beyond lovely, we instantly felt at home. We have made a lifelong friendship. It was one of those rare experiences that goes far beyond just a place to stay.
If you have a bit more time, drive out to Ballymaloe House for lunch. It is about an hour from Kinsale, but worth it. The setting is beautiful, the food is thoughtful and seasonal, and the whole place has a calm energy that is hard to leave.
Kinsale is not trying to be anything, it just is. Just enjoy walking along the harbor, eating delicious food, meeting new people, and remembering how good it feels to slow down….
Enjoy!
