Seems like any easy enough task, and it actually is. But there is more to it than digging a hole and dropping a tree into it.  That is, if you want it to survive. 

 

In community forestry we most often plant either container, balled and burlapped (B&B), or, occasionally, bare root trees. While there are subtle differences, they are all planted pretty much the same with some common problems involved. One of the biggest common problems is the lack of a visible root flare. This indicates that the tree is too deep in the pre-planting container.  If you can’t see the root flare in the B&B or container, you must remove planting medium until you dig it out.  

 

 

Another problem is often that the tree has been root bound as held and must be ‘released’. If this is the case, and it likely will be, simply cut vertical lines about an inch deep into the ball and get into those grooves with your fingers and begin to pull the ball apart. This encourages the root system to begin growing outward and not to continue spiraling in the hole.

 

The hole is often misunderstood. Most folks will dig too deep! It only needs to be as deep as the tree is in its container. This depth is measured as the depth from root flare to the bottom of the soil in the container. As an example, a typical 12-inch pot containing your tree may have no soil in the top 3-inches. Then you dig down 2-inches to the flare. So, you only really need to dig your hole 7-inches deep. 

 

Do not go beyond this and then backfill the hole! That backfill will settle and your tree will ‘drop’ in the hole and be too deep after a short while. The hole should be situated so that the root flare is at the natural ground level. Don’t concentrate on depth, concentrate on width. As I say in my tree planting workshops, “Hundred-dollar tree, four-hundred-dollar hole!”. 

 

Dig the hole at least 2 to 3 times the width of the root ball but stretching that out to 4 times the width is even better! This gives the root system a ‘running start’ by providing un-compacted soil into which they begin their life. Inspect the sides of the hole and if it has been ‘glazed’, use the shovel to scarify the sides to allow the roots to escape.

 

 

As I also like to say in our tree planting workshops, “If God didn’t put it on the tree, it don’t go in the hole!”. Remove that plastic container (oh, you’d be surprised!), all strings, ropes, tie-downs, bamboo sticks, and yes, that wire cage and burlap! I know those B&B trees can be large and very heavy in their heavy (clay) mediums, but you can pre-position the tree next to the hole and get it into the hole without that cage. Over my career I’ve seen too many dead urban trees killed by cages they were buried in.  

 

As we ease the tree into the hole, we really should have a running hose standing by to mix the backfill with water. This helps prevent airspaces in the hole. Roots don’t grow well in airspaces, in fact, they don’t grow at all.  While someone holds the tree upright, another backfills the hole with the original soil and another with the hose makes sure the tree doesn’t worry about airspaces. Once the hole is filled, tree, soil, water, you’re basically done. Don’t pack this down to remove air, the water will be doing that and besides, it’s going to be muddy!

 

Outside of tree care, safety is vital when digging any hole on your property. Always call 811 before digging so you don’t cut your neighbors’ fiberoptic line--or worse!

 

All the other associated tasks, i.e. mulching, staking, watering, etc. are the subjects of further episodes so, stay tuned!

 

Happy Planting!

 

Garden City, KS

(620) 805 - 3923