a day in…
LYON

A NEWSLETTER FROM MJ ELITE TRAVEL

 
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Here's a thing nobody tells you about Lyon, First name / friend: the city has two rivers, and they genuinely don't get along.
 
I don't mean that as a cute metaphor. I mean it that way because Lyon itself seems to believe it. I found that out standing in front of two bronze statues in the Musée des Beaux-Arts, and I have not stopped thinking about them since.
 
They're by the Coustou brothers, sculpted in 1721, and they used to stand outside in Place Bellecour for over two centuries before finally getting moved indoors to save them from the weather and the wear. One is the Rhône. He's cast as a mature man, muscular, weathered, a little restless even in bronze, like he's fighting to keep moving. The other is the Saône, sculpted as a young woman, soft-featured, unhurried, almost serene next to him. Two rivers, given two entirely different personalities, standing across from each other in a quiet gallery like they've been mid-argument for three hundred years.
 
And once you've seen that, you cannot walk around Lyon the same way again. Because the city actually is built on that tension. The Rhône really does move fast, and cold, and a little indifferent. The Saône really is slower, calmer, the kind of river you'd want to sit next to with a glass of wine. Lyon sits on the strip of land between the two, and depending on which bank you're standing on, you get a completely different city.
 
Curious what else Lyon's been hiding? Come talk rivers, wine, and where to eat in my Facebook group →JOIN
 

MORNING: The Quiet Side
 
Start on the Saône side, in Vieux Lyon, and go looking for traboules, the hidden passageways that cut straight through buildings and courtyards. Silk workers used them centuries ago to move fabric without the weather getting to it, and half of them still aren't marked on any map. You just have to push open a door and see where it leads. It's slow, secretive, a little like the river it sits beside.
AFTERNOON: The Museum
 
This is where you go find the statues yourself. The Musée des Beaux-Arts is easy to walk past if you don't know to look for it, but once you're standing in front of the Rhône and the Saône, you'll understand why I keep bringing it up. It's ten quiet minutes that end up explaining the whole city better than any guidebook could.
EVENING: The Restless Side
 
Cross back toward the Rhône for dinner, and let the city's other personality take over. A proper bouchon is where you land, quenelles, a glass of something local, the kind of unpretentious, generous cooking Lyon actually built its reputation on. Everything moves a little faster here, louder, more alive, the exact opposite of the morning's quiet wandering.

 
I didn't go to Lyon expecting to fall for a pair of three-hundred-year-old statues, but that's the trip for you. Sometimes the smallest, quietest detail ends up being the one you can't stop thinking about.
 
This Frommers article is one of the best written on 12 reasons you shouldn't skip Lyon. After you take a look, I know Lyon will be on your radar!
 
👇 When you are ready to take the plunge, let's talk it through
 
 
YOUR EUROPE EXPERIENCE DESIGNER
Marnie
 
 P.S. Find the statues at the Musée des Beaux-Arts if you go. They spent over two hundred years outside in Place Bellecour before finally being moved in for preservation. Give yourself ten quiet minutes there, it'll change how you see the rest of the city.

 
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A NEWSLETTER FROM MJ ELITE TRAVEL
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