They're by the Coustou brothers, sculpted in 1721, and they used to stand outside in Place Bellecour for over two centuries before finally getting moved indoors to save them from the weather and the wear. One is the Rhône. He's cast as a mature man, muscular, weathered, a little restless even in bronze, like he's fighting to keep moving. The other is the Saône, sculpted as a young woman, soft-featured, unhurried, almost serene next to him. Two rivers, given two entirely different personalities, standing across from each other in a quiet gallery like they've been mid-argument for three hundred years.
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And once you've seen that, you cannot walk around Lyon the same way again. Because the city actually is built on that tension. The Rhône really does move fast, and cold, and a little indifferent. The Saône really is slower, calmer, the kind of river you'd want to sit next to with a glass of wine. Lyon sits on the strip of land between the two, and depending on which bank you're standing on, you get a completely different city.
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Cross back toward the Rhône for dinner, and let the city's other personality take over. A proper bouchon is where you land, quenelles, a glass of something local, the kind of unpretentious, generous cooking Lyon actually built its reputation on. Everything moves a little faster here, louder, more alive, the exact opposite of the morning's quiet wandering.
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I didn't go to Lyon expecting to fall for a pair of three-hundred-year-old statues, but that's the trip for you. Sometimes the smallest, quietest detail ends up being the one you can't stop thinking about.
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This Frommers article is one of the best written on 12 reasons you shouldn't skip Lyon. After you take a look, I know Lyon will be on your radar!
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